From the festive warmth of the d’Angleterre to day trips into Denmark’s rich history, a first-hand journey through scenes once known only in art and literature.

Until now, my only introduction to Denmark in winter was through the stories of Andersen or glimpses of paintings where snowy Copenhagen streets glow with candlelight and a sense of quiet joy. These scenes felt almost mythic, like pages from a well-worn book that offered just enough to imagine Denmark but never quite revealed it fully. That changed this November when I found myself stepping into a scene of Copenhagen at Christmas, welcomed by the elegance and holiday festive cheer of the Hotel d’Angleterre.

At Christmas, the d’Angleterre becomes pure holiday magic—a festive haven that feels like home.

The timing was perfect: I arrived just in time for the Christmas lights to be revealed on d’Angleterre’s façade, a ceremony that draws crowds every year. As we approached the square outside, the lights flickered on, illuminating the hotel in a glittering display that seemed to wrap the whole building in holiday cheer. The Copenhagen Boys Choir performed on the balcony for the tree-lighting ceremony, their voices filling the night air with the sounds of the season. Standing among locals and travellers in the heart of Kongens Nytorv, surrounded by holiday stalls, the smell of mulled wine drifting from nearby stands, and the ice skaters circling the rink that had been installed for the season, I felt the true spirit of Danish Christmas.

Inside, the d’Angleterre was equally festive. This historic hotel has seen centuries come and go since it was first founded by a Frenchman and his Danish wife in 1755. Though renovated with modern comforts, it has preserved a timeless charm, and during Christmas, it positively glows with warmth. Fires flickered in the lobby, soft lights and garlands decorated every room, and a grand Christmas tree took centre stage in the main hall. The Danish Christmas decorations, themed around gingerbread houses and toy soldiers, added a whimsical charm. Yet with all this festive detail, the d’Angleterre feels like staying in the home of a friend with impeccable taste, someone like Christian Liaigre who just happens to be a designer. It beautifully straddles the fine line between being deeply personal and inviting, yet never impersonal or resembling a chain.

The hotel has 92 rooms and suites, and I couldn’t resist taking a tour of some of the different room categories. Junior Suites have balconies offering views over the old town, while a range of Superior Rooms and other Junior Suites come in various configurations, depending on whether they’re located in the original historic building or newer sections. Not that we had much occasion for it on our visit, but there’s even an enormous ballroom under a glass roof in what was once the entrance courtyard where carriages circled.

Our own suite was a serene retreat, with high ceilings, rich fabrics, and a view over Kongens Nytorv. The marble bathroom, stocked with Diptyque toiletries, was luxurious, and the muted colour palette created a calm, inviting escape.

Each morning began with a lavish buffet breakfast at the hotel, featuring eggs cooked to order and an array of Danish pastries. The hotel’s culinary offerings didn’t end there; we also indulged in lobster sliders and æbleskiver—small, fluffy spherical pancakes traditionally dusted with powdered sugar—served warm in Marchal, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant.

The fitness centre, located within the hotel, boasts an array of state-of-the-art machines and, during our visit, never seemed overly crowded. For those looking to unwind further, the hotel houses the only sizeable indoor swimming pool in the old city, complete with both wet and dry saunas—a perfect retreat after a day of exploring Copenhagen.

Later in the trip, we visited the Carlsberg Museum, a treasure trove of history that chronicles the rise of one of Denmark’s most famous exports: Carlsberg beer. The museum also houses a fine collection of Rodin sculptures, including The Burghers of Calais, a dramatic centrepiece that conveys both despair and resilience. Walking through the museum, it was fascinating to see how Carlsberg’s founder, J.C. Jacobsen, not only shaped the beer industry but also left a legacy of art, culture, and innovation in Denmark.

Our cultural explorations continued with a visit to the National Museum of Denmark. The Viking exhibit, in particular, offered a glimpse into Denmark’s fierce, independent roots. But the museum went well beyond this era, showcasing a tapestry of history through mediaeval art, 19th-century culture, and deeply personal stories that made the past feel alive and relatable.

Returning to the d’Angleterre each evening felt like stepping into a world apart. Whether it was an intimate drink at the Champagne bar, a festive tea at Marchal, or simply sitting by the fire, the hotel offered moments to pause, reflect, and soak in the season.

As our stay drew to a close, I realized that Denmark had quietly stepped out from behind the pages of Andersen’s tales and shown me a side of itself that was richer and more textured than I’d imagined. The d’Angleterre, with its blend of history, warmth, and understated luxury, had been the perfect base—a place where holiday lights and fireside moments turned each evening into a quiet celebration of the season’s charm.