The True Cost is a documentary that exposes the dark side of the global fashion industry, focusing on the human and environmental toll of fast fashion. Directed by Andrew Morgan, this powerful film explores the hidden reality behind the low prices and high turnover that define the modern fashion world. Through firsthand accounts from garment workers, environmental activists, and industry insiders, the documentary reveals the true costs, often unseen by consumers, of our fashion choices.

In this article, we’ll examine the major issues raised in The True Cost, including exploitative labour practices, environmental devastation, and the culture of consumption that drives them. We’ll also discuss the film’s proposed solutions and actionable steps that consumers and companies can take toward a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry.

The problem: a global industry with hidden costs

The True Cost shows the ugly underbelly of the fast fashion industry, which has come to dominate the global apparel market. Fast fashion brands prioritise speed, affordability, and volume, producing a staggering quantity of clothing at low prices and with low quality. But this approach relies on cutting corners, often at the expense of garment workers and the environment.

  1. Exploitation of labour
    One of the most pressing issues highlighted in The True Cost is the exploitation of garment workers, many of whom work in appalling conditions for unliveable wages. The film provides a close look at the lives of these workers, particularly in Bangladesh, India, and Cambodia, where labour is cheap and regulations are lax. Workers toil long hours in unsafe factories, often without basic labour rights or protections. This exploitation is tragically illustrated by events like the 2013 Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh, where over 1,100 workers lost their lives due to the collapse of an unsafe building housing multiple garment factories. This tragedy took place despite the many notices given by the workers again and again which were disregarded.

  2. Environmental devastation
    The environmental impact of fast fashion is equally alarming. The industry is the second-largest polluter globally, responsible for significant water pollution, toxic waste, and greenhouse gas emissions. Synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon, derived from fossil fuels, release microplastics into waterways, harming aquatic life and entering the food chain. Cotton, a staple in clothing, requires massive amounts of water and pesticides (which is also harmful to our bodies), leading to soil degradation, water scarcity, and biodiversity loss. These issues are felt acutely in developing countries where natural resources are exploited for the production of cheap clothing.

  3. The culture of overconsumption
    At the heart of fast fashion is a culture of overconsumption. Consumers in developed countries have grown accustomed to inexpensive, disposable clothing, with new collections appearing every few weeks. This "throwaway" culture leads to enormous waste, with millions of tons of clothing discarded annually. Often, this waste is shipped to developing countries, where it becomes an environmental and logistical burden. The True Cost challenges viewers to question the sustainability of this cycle of buying and discarding, asking us to consider the deeper impact of our seemingly innocuous shopping habits.

The solution: towards a sustainable and ethical fashion industry

The True Cost doesn’t just expose problems, but it also points toward solutions and calls for a shift in how we view and consume fashion. The film suggests several actionable changes, from individual choices to industry-wide reforms, that could help alleviate the damage caused by fast fashion.

  1. Advocating for fair labour practices
    One of the most immediate changes is the demand for fair wages and safe working conditions for garment workers. Governments in major clothing-producing countries can enact and enforce labour laws that protect workers rights. Brands and retailers also have a responsibility to ensure their supply chains are transparent and ethical. Consumers can support these efforts by choosing brands that prioritise fair labour practices, such as those certified by Fair Trade or other ethical standards.

  2. Embracing sustainable materials
    Shifting toward sustainable materials is crucial for reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact. Natural fibres, organic cotton, and recycled materials offer alternatives to the synthetic, resource-intensive fabrics dominating fast fashion. Advances in textile recycling technologies are making it easier to produce clothing with a smaller environmental footprint. Many brands are starting to adopt these materials and processes, and consumers can support these efforts by looking for certifications like Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or Bluesign.

  3. Adopting a "slow fashion" mindset
    The True Cost advocates for a "slow fashion" approach, emphasising quality over quantity. Slow fashion encourages consumers to invest in well-made pieces that are designed to last, rather than inexpensive items that will wear out quickly. By prioritising quality, we can reduce waste, decrease demand for resource-intensive production, and ultimately foster a more sustainable industry.

  4. Supporting circular economy models
    Circular fashion models, including clothing rental, resale, and repair, are growing in popularity as alternatives to traditional fashion retail. Companies like Patagonia and Eileen Fisher have pioneered take-back programs, encouraging customers to return worn items for recycling or resale. Platforms like Depop, Poshmark, and ThredUp make it easy for consumers to buy and sell second-hand clothing. Supporting these initiatives can reduce waste, extend the life of garments, and lower the demand for new production.

  5. Demanding transparency and accountability
    A significant problem in the fashion industry is the lack of transparency in supply chains. Consumers can push for greater accountability by supporting brands committed to ethical and sustainable practices. Many brands are now sharing information about their factories, labour conditions, and environmental impact. Tools like the Fashion Transparency Index provide valuable insights into which brands prioritise openness, and which remain opaque.

Consumer action: how we can make a difference

While much of the responsibility for change lies with fashion companies and policymakers, The True Cost highlights that consumers also play a crucial role. Here are some ways we can make a difference:

  • Educate ourselves: learning about the impact of our choices can inspire more mindful purchasing habits. Platforms like Good On You and Remake offer resources and brand ratings based on environmental and ethical criteria, helping consumers make informed decisions.

  • Buy less, choose well: instead of following trends, consider purchasing versatile, timeless pieces that can be worn across multiple seasons. Investing in quality clothing that lasts reduces the frequency of purchases and minimises waste.

  • Support sustainable brands: many small and large companies are committed to ethical production and eco-friendly practices. Supporting these brands sends a message to the fashion industry that there is demand for sustainable options.

  • Reuse and recycle: donate, sell, or repurpose clothing you no longer wear. Many organisations, such as The Salvation Army and H&M, offer programs for donating or recycling used clothing. Some municipalities also have textile recycling initiatives.

  • Encourage conversations: talking about these issues with friends, family, and on social media can raise awareness and inspire others to make conscious choices.

A closing thought: rethinking our relationship with fashion

The True Cost forces us to reevaluate our relationship with fashion and reconsider what it truly means to be stylish. Instead of viewing clothing as disposable, we’re encouraged to see it as an investment, not just in our appearance, but in the values we want to support. This mindset shift is essential for fostering a fashion industry that respects people, the planet, and future generations.

As consumers, we have the power to drive change, one choice at a time. While the shift to ethical and sustainable fashion may seem daunting, every step counts. By valuing quality, supporting transparency, and embracing a slower approach to fashion, we can help build a more sustainable and humane future.

The True Cost serves as a call to action, urging us to reflect on the impact of our fashion choices and recognise the influence we hold. It’s a reminder that true style isn’t just about what we wear, but how it’s made, who makes it, and the lasting legacy it leaves. In this light, the real cost of fashion isn’t just about dollars and cents, it’s about ethics, sustainability, and our collective responsibility to make a difference.