The lure and stories surrounding California’s picturesque Catalina Island (known officially as Santa Catalina Island) is almost as varied as nearby Hollywood itself. Being just 22 miles from the Southern California coastline, the island has long been popular with all types of visitors since it became a travel destination more than 100 years ago.
In the golden age of Hollywood, Catalina Island was a retreat for icons like Charlie Chaplin and Joan Crawford, offering a secluded paradise just miles from the glitz and glamour of Los Angeles. In fact, before Marilyn Monroe was famous, she was Norma Jeane living in an apartment on the island with her then-husband during World War II.
Today, Catalina sees over 800,000 visitors a year. As daytrippers, safari seekers—wanting to catch a glimpse of the island’s infamous wild bison—and out-of-towners frolic through busy Avalon, the island’s main tourist thoroughfare, more serious outdoors lovers choose a different path: the Trans-Catalina Trail. Hikers of this 37-mile rugged trail can expect to spend four days hiking from Pebbly Beach to Starlight Beach, through canyons and sun drenched desert coves with views of a lush wild flower-filled greenery against a rugged but sometimes sandy and pristine coastline.
For those who desire a third option—a perfect balance between being immersed in nature and enjoying a tranquil vacation—camping at Two Harbors is your answer. Located approximately 18 miles from the town of Avalon, the community of Two Harbors and its camping sites are often occupied with a variety of visitors– everyone from boy scout troops to large families to honeymooners seeking a relaxed yet adventurous way to enjoy the nature of the Mediterranean-like island.
Arriving at Santa Catalina Island, and specifically Two Harbors, from the mainland can be an adventure in and of itself. Opting for a sailboat, which takes about six hours, or chartering a helicopter are two popular ways to arrive but the local ferry (called the Catalina Express) is undoubtedly the most popular. The island’s frequent visitors know that aboard the ferry is where the real vacation starts. In fact, it’s there at the below deck bar where you can find one of the finest Bloody Mary’s around. Sitting on the top of the high-speed vessel will afford you lovely views, once you leave behind the noisy storage containers and cargo ships from the bustling Port of Los Angeles.
The hour and 15 minute journey takes you from the bustling San Pedro to the tranquility of Two Harbors where instantly the fresh air feels easier to breathe. Once you arrive, checking in for camping at the visitor’s center is simple. Although camping at Two Harbors is nothing but relaxing, reserving the campsite ahead of time is a must. However, reserving activities, such as a self-captained skiff boat that allows you to visit the other bays of the island, just out of view from Two Harbors, can be done on-site. For those with little boating experience, reserving a kayak or mountain bike is another option to explore.
After setting up camp, which consists of an arduous walk up the hillside, there’s nothing to do but enjoy the views of the coastline, swim in the ocean, jump off the rocks into the sea, and enjoy yourself. Close by the campsite is a café and a cozy dive with unpretentious but delicious fresh seafood dishes where a great mix of visitors and locals drink piña coladas on the outside porch or watch sports on TVs at the bar.
There are a few essential items that you must pack, whether you are staying for one night or an entire week. A small weekender bag should be enough to pack a beach towel for lounging, a drying towel for the campsite’s outdoor showers, a snorkel set, a sunhat, sunscreen, and a swimsuit. All of these items can be theoretically purchased at the stores on the island but its likely that once you arrive and find your designated campsite, you’ll want to do nothing but go straight to the beach.
During your time, Catalina also offers plenty of other ways to enjoy its nature, hiking and mountain biking being very popular. While on your adventures, be on the lookout for the island’s wild bison. Movie stars in their own right, the bison were brought over in the 1920s for the filming of the silent movie The Vanishing American and they’ve been famous ever since.
Snorkeling off the coast of Catalina’s beaches is the best way to see the island’s varied ocean life. It’s common to catch a glimpse of California’s state fish –the bright orange garibaldi fish– or even spot a bat ray. The island also offers diving trips for those who want to go deeper.
Leaving Catalina, whether by helicopter or ferry, is always bittersweet. Once you’re back to life on the mainland –parking lot traffic, 18-wheelers barreling overhead on the port’s bridge, the sounds of mechanical cranes from the pier– is almost enough to bring your back to earth. But Catalina’s charm is in the way that the feeling stays with you.
Long after laundering your beach towels and getting back to city life, the nights sleeping on the sandy hills listening to the endless ocean waves, mornings taking an outdoor shower watching the birds, and the last piña colada you enjoy while waiting to board the boat back, are feeling that can stick around long enough to make even a short trip worth it. Like its physical closeness to Southern California city life, visitors find that memories of the island’s charm are always close by, wherever else you find yourself.