There are moments in life when the beauty of nature, the joy of friendship, and the art of hospitality converge to create unforgettable memories. Celebrating my friend Scott Ross’s birthday on the Isle of Skye was one such occasion.

Journey to Skye

Our journey began with a scenic drive from Kent, taking us through Cambridge and Carlisle, where we enjoyed a restful night at The Fleece at Ruleholme. The following day, the picturesque landscapes of Scotland guided us to the enchanting Isle of Skye. We were welcomed at the Hillstone Lodge in Colbost by the warm and hospitable Bertie and Jana, who treated us to delicious breakfasts and made us feel at home.

Hillstone Lodge was more than just a place to stay; it was a haven of comfort and tranquillity. The lodge, perched on a hillside overlooking Loch Dunvegan, offered breathtaking views that changed with the light and weather. The modern, sparsely decorated rooms provided a perfect blend of luxury and coziness, making it easy to unwind after a day of exploring. Bertie and Jana’s hospitality extended beyond just excellent service—they shared stories, offered local insights, and truly made us feel like part of their extended family.

Culinary delights of Skye

The food and dining experiences on Skye were extraordinary and deserve a spotlight of their own. At Chid-akasha Skye, Petra Nemesova crafted a vegetarian dinner for us that was both innovative and deeply satisfying. The flavours were a true reflection of the bounty of her croft garden, which she tends year-round to grow enough produce for her summer season. Chid-akasha in Sanskrit signifies “an abode of peace," a place and state of calm consciousness which she has re-created in a two hundred-year-old Skye croft house. The interior is a visual expression of her calm and spiritual personality, and the selection of ethereal music is designed to relax her guests, allowing them to be fully open to the taste sensations on offer. An intense sensory experience at all levels, even further enhanced by matching her food with the world’s very finest artisan teas. The best of local and global combined in a unique harmony.

Another culinary highlight was our lunch at The Three Chimneys, where Sous Chef Ryan Woodward showcased his brigade’s mastery of local produce. Dishes like queen scallops and venison stew were not just meals but experiences that celebrated all of Skye, Land, and Sea. The ambiance of the restaurant, paired with the stunning views, made this meal particularly memorable.

The Isle of Skye’s fine dining scene has evolved significantly over the years, with a host of talented chefs creating exceptional culinary experiences. As my friend Scott puts it, “For over thirty years, the fine dining scene on Skye was a tale of two culinary queens—Shirley Spear OBE at The Three Chimneys in the North and Lady Claire Macdonald OBE at Kinloch Lodge in the South. Both were recognized by Queen Elizabeth II for their exceptional lifetime contributions to the hospitality industry on Skye and in Scotland.”

“Since then, the foodie scene on the island has exploded, with potential star chefs settling on each of Skye’s diverse peninsulas. These include Jordan Webb at Kinloch Lodge on Sleat, Café Cuil, Coruisk House on Strathaird, and the vegetarian Chid-akasha Skye on Duirinish. The original The Three Chimneys and The House Over-By, now to be led by new Head Chef Paul Green, continues to shine, while Michael Smith at Loch Bay and Calum Montgomery at Edinbane Lodge consistently provide top-notch culinary experiences.”

“The demand from visitors to eat good food on Skye far exceeds the service capacity the island can deliver, where hiring chef and service teams is now an epic managerial challenge. Anyone who can set up a reliable business and consistently deliver tasty food and drink must be prepared to work hard but will almost certainly succeed in this captive market. There has been an explosion of new family-friendly offerings in the mid-price range so that the island increasingly has something to offer all tastes and budgets.”

“For the moment, there are two exceptional chef players at the top of their game. Both have managed to provide the culinary artistry, daily consistency, and supreme quality of service for which Skye is deservedly and globally famous. They have developed their businesses to a point where they can focus on Dinner Tasting Menus only with a full day to forage or carefully monitor all deliveries andenough time to prepare superb mise-en-place for their heavily reserved evening services.

  • Chef/patron Calum Montgomery at Edinbane Lodge. A son of the island who has fostered every local connection he and his family have, to deliver an inspired, supremely local degustation Menu that just keeps getting better and better.

  • Chef/patron Michael Smith at Loch Bay holds the island’s only One Michelin Star. He has been working with the same exceptionally talented core brigade for over twenty years now, with Chef Issy Tomlin taking the lead on pastry for him. He has maximised the opportunity of being located right on the seafront in Stein harbour, by focusing on a seafood-based tasting menu. This also showcases his unique gifts as the best cook of fish and shellfish on the island, if not in Scotland.”

A celebration steeped in art

Scott’s celebration of friendship was more than just a birthday party. It was a series of events that brought together friends from different parts of his life, creating a sense of unity and joy. The welcoming dinner at the Glendale Village Community Hall set the tone with heartfelt conversations and a sense of camaraderie. For that evening, local skipper and fishermen Kevin Mackinnon had kindly offered to barbecue his finest catch of lobsters and langoustines for the arriving guests, served with delicious melting butters of herbs, garlic, and chorizo.

The Sunday morning friendship ceremony was a beautiful testament to the personal bonds of friendship Scott has formed over the years, featuring singing from Gaelic traditional artist and student opera singer, Annie Macdonald.

A visit to Diane Mackie’s working studio and gallery at Number 10, Boreraig added an artistic dimension to our trip. Diana, a professional painter and qualified designer, has lived on the Isle of Skye since 1992. Her studio, perched on a cliff edge overlooking the Outer Hebrides, is a testament to her deep connection with the dramatic landscapes of Skye. Diana’s work captures the island’s essence, with vibrant colours and textural dynamics that reflect the ever-changing weather fronts over the moorlands, mountains, and shorelines. The gallery provided a fascinating insight into her creative process and showcased her impressive body of work.

The highlight of the celebration was the Bollywood dance performance by Meena Watts and Lesley Hellon. Meena introduced Indian Bollywood dancing to the Isle of Skye in 2010 and has since made a vibrant and colourful contribution to the island’s cultural scene. Her show troupe, The Bollywood Babes, performed a dazzling routine that combined Scottish and international influences with her signature Bollywood va-va-voom. The energy and joy of the performances were infectious, making it a memorable part of Scott’s Cairdeas Ceilidh: a “Celebration of Friendship” Sunday evening knees-up for his international guests to meet and dance with all the locals. Clan Chief, Hugh Macleod of Macleod from Dunvegan Castle, honoured the party with his attendance and his whisky.

Scott’s birthday gift from Skye Weavers was a beautiful gilet, handwoven by Andrea and Roger Holden. Their story is one of passion and craftsmanship, and the gilet was a fitting gift that embodies the spirit of the island. Scott wore it proudly to his farewell croft bonfire, a symbol of the lasting memories we created during our stay.

Exploring Skye’s natural beauty

An adventure at sea further added to the magic of our stay. We went on a Misty Isle Boat Trip with Skipper Seumas Mackinnon, grandson of the clan and the Misty Isle Boat-owning family, the Mackinnons of Elgol. Seumas, also a professional Scottish actor, guided us on his boat, accompanied by the sounds of the small Highland pipes played by Alastair Watt. As we cruised along the coast, dolphins danced in the waves and a majestic sea eagle soared above, reminding us of the natural wonders that Skye has to offer. The picnic on this trip was simple yet perfect… A range of very healthy salad bowls created by Chef John Coghill of the Hebridean Inn to enjoy as we just sat savouring the absolute silence and raw beauty of Loch Coruisk all around us. On the return voyage, we were treated to a birthday cake and ice creams made by Rosario Baqueriza Jackson from Argentina, adding a delightful touch to the celebration.

During our boat trip, Seumus, who is a relative of John MacKinnon, shared the fascinating tale behind the tipple Drambuie. According to him, the famous Scottish liqueur’s recipe was given by Prince Charles Edward Stuart, Bonnie Prince Charlie, to his forefather Captain John MacKinnon of Skye as a token of gratitude for helping him escape after the Battle of Culloden in 1746. The recipe has been passed down through generations, adding a touch of royal intrigue to the island’s rich heritage.

The Coral Beach at Claigan, with its stunning white sands made of crushed white coral, is a must-see. The clear blue waters and the unique beach landscape create an otherworldly experience that feels more Caribbean than Scottish. A walk along the shore is both invigorating and serene, offering breathtaking views and a chance to connect with nature.

The Fairy Pools, located near Glenbrittle, are another enchanting natural wonder on the Isle of Skye. These crystal-clear blue pools, fed by a series of waterfalls, offer a magical and serene experience. The walk to the pools is a relatively easy hike through the picturesque landscape of the Cuillin Mountains. Visitors are often captivated by the vivid colours and the enchanting atmosphere, making the fairy pools a perfect spot for photography, wild swimming, or simply soaking in the natural beauty.

Yet another highlight was our walk to Neist Point Lighthouse. This iconic landmark on Skye’s westernmost tip provides a spectacular viewpoint. The walk itself is relatively easy and offers dramatic coastal scenery. Standing by the lighthouse, we were treated to panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean, making it a perfect spot for reflection and photography.

A glimpse into history

Exploring the historical aspects of Skye, we visited Dunvegan Castle, the seat of the MacLeod clan, one of the oldest families in Scotland. The castle, steeped in history and legend, offered a fascinating glimpse into the island’s past. Walking through its ancient halls, we learned about the clan’s storied heritage and admired the impressive collections of artifacts and artwork.

Leaving Skye

Leaving Skye, I felt a deep sense of connection and gratitude. The four days spent there were filled with laughter, shared stories, and the warmth of new and old friendships. Scott’s spirit and generosity made this celebration truly special, leaving us with vivid and joyous memories.

For those seeking a blend of natural beauty, rich culinary experiences, and heartfelt connections, the Isle of Skye offers an unparalleled destination. The island’s diverse landscapes, coupled with its exceptional dining and cultural experiences, ensure every visitor leaves with a story worth telling.