It’s a sunny Sunday afternoon. You're sitting in the cool shade of a thick chestnut canopy, listening to glasses clink all around, and watching checked tablecloths gently flutter in the breeze. Where else could you be but in a Bavarian beer garden?

These establishments are considered so important and so deeply rooted in tradition that the Bavarian Beer Garden Ordinance of 1999 labels them a part of cultural heritage. Better said, they’re part of the Bavarian way of life. Only in Germany, eh?

Here in Munich, you’ll find it easy to stumble across one and be pulled in by its cultural charm, the smell of good food, and the sight of deliciously golden beer in barrels upon barrels. They’re the perfect place for people to watch and an even better place to get a handle on local customs and conventions. In other words, if you want to get to know Bavaria, start in a beer garden.

Here’s what to expect, the dos and don’ts, and your basic survival tips for man’s greatest invention: the beer garden.

History

Believe it or not, beer gardens have been around and adored in Munich since the early nineteenth century. As the story goes, tensions were quickly mounting between the city’s brewers and innkeepers. In a bid to clear the air, Bavarian King Maximillian decreed that the brewers could sell their fresh beer in the innkeepers’ gardens. He stipulated that only beer and bread could be sold there, meaning customers could bring their own food if they so wished—a custom that continues in most Bavarian beer gardens today. It’s proof, really, that every problem can be solved with good beer.

It wasn’t hard to merge the two together. Brewers would dig deep cellars under the terraces along the River Isar to keep their products cool and on ice. (Now, my beer knowledge may be rusty, but it’s a known fact that yeast needs low temperatures to ferment.) Kept safely underground, the beer could stay refreshingly cold in its barrels while also being easily accessible to serve thirsty customers. Throw a couple of picnic tables and benches together nearby, and you’ve got yourself a beer garden. What’s not to love?

Indeed, the love for these establishments has been so fierce at times that it led to the great Beer Garden Revolution of ’95. Twenty-five thousand Munich residents took to the streets to challenge a judicial decree sent from Berlin. In terms beer drinkers will understand, tensions in Munich had bubbled over like a freshly tapped beer barrel. This decree suggested opening hours be slashed in an attempt to curb ‘environmental emissions’—noise, if you ask me. Nevertheless, the people prevailed, and order was restored. Now, the Bavarian Beer Garden Regulation exempts beer gardens in residential areas from closing in the early evenings. Crisis averted.

Customs

If you want to look and feel like a true local, you should be conscious of the unwritten rules of beer garden etiquette, otherwise known as Biergarten Knigge in German. Let us begin with the lexicon of Bavarian beer culture—my most valuable wisdom to impart, perhaps. Aside from the standard 'Ein Bier, bitte' or 'Gesundheit!', here are a few terms and expressions worth knowing.

Prost! The German 'cheers!' is easy to remember and easy to understand, but don’t underestimate its importance. The rule of thumb is to toast ten times per stein—not only does this help to keep your beer from going flat, but it also invites conversation with those around you. However, you’ll find that there’s a right and a wrong way to do it. First of all, be sure to make eye contact with the other toastees; otherwise, you risk years of bad sex or luck, depending on who you ask. Toasting with water is also thought to bring bad luck, but I doubt you’ll encounter this problem here. Clinking the bottoms of glasses is also considered best—Bavarian beer drinkers can become a little overenthusiastic in the right setting and could well break your glass before you’ve even got going. And finally, note that it’s acceptable in Bavaria to touch the table with your glass before taking a sip—perhaps a welcome respite from the sheer weight of the monstrous steins. So, if there’s anything to learn, it’s to toast, toast often, and toast well.

Another worthy term to add to the list is Stammtisch—particularly important if you don’t wish to anger beer-hungry Bavarians. It refers to the table at a beer garden that’s reserved for regulars. It comes from the words Stamm, meaning stem, root, or tribe, and Tisch, meaning table, or do you remember nothing from learning German at school? Fear not, however. These tables are normally clearly earmarked or very visibly reserved by the most Bavarian-looking bunch of them all. From my experience, they’re usually taken by middle-aged men settled into their usual sun-dappled spot and decked out in traditional Tracht, from the suede lederhosen and woolly socks right to the velvet waistcoats and feather-plumed hats.

Onto the next one, now: nothing sums up Bavarian beer gardens quite like the term Gemütlichkeit. And yet, it’s incredibly hard to find an adequate translation for it. It conveys a sense of warmth, of peace of mind, and of good cheer. Indeed, many positive qualities fall under the umbrella of Gemütlichkeit, so much so that it’s become as much a part of beer gardens as the beer itself. You’ll hear this term not in conversation but in song in the livelier establishments or late into the evenings when everyone’s had plenty to drink. ‘Ein Prosit der Gemütlichkeit’ is perhaps the most famous beer garden song of all. It’s not a masterpiece, but it’s certainly a crowd-pleaser. Literally translated to ‘Cheers to Coziness’, it’s a toast to happiness, a toast to friendship, and a toast to a good time.

One beer garden custom to be particularly aware of is the fact that you will often have to share a table with others. So, don’t be afraid to ask—you’ll almost always be met with a hearty ‘ja, freilich!’ (of course!). Together with the live music you can often enjoy, shared tables truly reinforce this idea of good cheer among strangers. Although perhaps nothing breaks down social barriers more than belting out a verse of ‘Ein Prosit der Gemütlichkeit’. The second custom is for the good of everyone, as there’s nothing scarier than a dissatisfied beer drinker or a disgraced waiter. Don’t be alarmed if a server comes along and takes away your drink, even though there’s a sip or two still left. As every seasoned Bavarian beer drinker knows, that last bit of beer—known as the Noagerl in Bavarian German—is warm and flat. So they’re doing you a favor. Mourn and move on to a more refreshing, newly poured beer. Lastly, comes the last call. The Bavarian Beer Garden Ordinance mandates that every beer garden be closed by 11:00 p.m. But don’t worry; tomorrow’s another day. It’s past noon somewhere else in the world, so you can start back again as soon as they reopen.

Suffice it to say, Bavarian beer gardens and their customs truly are the epitome of Gemütlichkeit. In fact, goodwill and sociability are so intrinsic to beer garden culture that they’re legally bound. To quote the good ol’ Bavarian Beer Garden Ordinance of ‘99 again, ‘beer gardens fulfill important social and communicative functions, enabling a casual coexistence that transcends social differences.’

Food & drink

Though some establishments allow you to bring your own food, a taste of Bavarian delicacies while you’re there is an absolute must for the true Bavarian beer garden experience. Note that tables set with tablecloths and cutlery are for ordering à la carte from a server—in other words, for the more civilized—whereas bare tables are for self-service.

A personal favorite, Obatzda, is a fluffy, creamy cheese dip served with salty radishes or tangy red onion on the side—the ultimate combo. Though it’s sometimes served with bread, I always order an extra pretzel for the side—save your judgment, please. Speaking of pretzels, I couldn’t forgive myself if I didn’t recommend you have one, particularly the extra-large ones—sometimes even as big as your head. You’ll also find Wurstsalat (sausage salad) and Kartoffelsalat (potato salad) available as sides—how deliciously Bavarian. For something more substantial, how about some Currywurst? This sausage dish is perhaps the most popular of all, with its sweet and lightly spicy sauce always a hit. Let’s not forget Schweinshaxe (roasted pork knuckle) with its mouth-watering crackle and Schnitzel, a lean cut of meat in a well-seasoned breadcrumb coating. When in Munich, you may also try its famous sausage, the Weißwurst. Don’t be dissuaded by its appearance. Though pale and seemingly unappetizing, it’s bursting with flavor and washes down particularly well with beer. Vegetarians, I haven't forgotten about you. Though you may not be spoilt for choice, you can always rely on Käsespätzle. Topped with deliciously crispy, crunchy onions, this dish is a delightful mound of cheesy noodle goodness that you're sure to love.

Now, for the main attraction: the star of the show. The beer. Of course, you can opt for a soft drink, wine, or water, but let’s be honest, that’s not why you came here, is it? For those who aren’t big beer drinkers or prefer a less alcoholic version, there’s such a thing as a Radler—a mix of beer and lemonade—but I tend to quietly judge those who order this from behind my ginormous stein of delicious, untainted beer. Weißbier (white beer) is also a popular choice here. With a long history that dates back to the Bavarian ruling family, this malty, wheaty beverage is noticeably cloudy and golden in appearance and quite distinctive in taste with fruity overtones. You can also go for Dunkelbier (dark beer)—although less popular, it’s a delicious, toasted reminder of Munich’s passion for dark lagers. I like to stick to the classic Helles, a traditional German pale lager. It’s perfectly refreshing and at its most delicious when served in the majestic Maß, a hefty one-liter mug.

When it comes to beer garden drinking, there’s two final things to note. The first is called Pfand, a concept you may be unfamiliar with if you don’t live in our neck of the woods. In essence, it’s a clever little return system. Pfand is the deposit you’re charged to cover the glass stein in case you try to run off with it—although I doubt you’d get far. Return the glass and you’ll get your money back—easy-peasy—so don’t be alarmed when your beer seems particularly pricey. The other convention to note is that if you just want a small glass of beer after a certain time of the day, chances are you’re out of luck. The bad news is that it’s unlikely you’ll be able to order anything less than a half-liter after 4 p.m. Scratch that. The good news is, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to order anything less than a half-liter after 4 p.m. I’m sure you’ll survive.

Perhaps I’ve transformed into a true Bavarian, or perhaps it’s just common sense, but suffice it to say, beer gardens are simply the best. Good food, good beer, and good vibes. It’s where you go to experience a taste of local culture, where all differences subside, and where a great time is sure to be had. And there you have it: everything you need for a perfect summer evening in a Bavarian beer garden.