When we entered through the front door of The Dysart on a balmy Sunday evening, it felt as if we were visiting an old friend in his home rather than coming to one of the most highly acclaimed restaurants in West London. Our host, managing director Barny Taylor, lives in the house with his family upstairs but conducts culinary affairs downstairs to great acclaim, which justifies this sentiment.

The building used to be called The Dysart Arms, a former public house in the early part of this century and was previously a farmhouse dating from the second half of the 17th century; it is rumoured that the Countess of Dysart paid for the name change in the 1830s and that Charles Dickens, a regular visitor to Petersham stayed here. The building was demolished in 1902 and rebuilt in 1904, and the overall calming beauty is here for everyone to enjoy when visiting this one-of-a-kind house.

Managing a Michelin-star restaurant is often the pinnacle of culinary achievement, a dream realised by only a select few; Barny's guidance is as inspiring as it is impressive with his testament to passion, perseverance, and unwavering commitment to excellence. It is a role that demands exceptional organisational skills, a deep understanding of fine dining, and the ability to lead and inspire a dedicated team. Barny honourably fulfils many roles, such as Front of House and sommelier, and offers a welcoming and easy-going friendly conversation to all the guests, making everybody feel at ease.

Is there anything not to love at the Dysart? Of course not; it also offers a rare opportunity for Londoners to step away from the city's hustle and bustle into a rural idyll without leaving the capital. Sitting proudly on the outskirts of Petersham Meadows in Richmond, not far from Petersham Farm Stables and opposite one of the main entrances to Richmond Park, you will discover a well-kept house resembling a family home rather than a restaurant where you will experience a unique dining experience with a menu taking you on a journey of exquisite tastes.

The unfailing attention to detail in the venue is duly reflected in all things culinary on the restaurant floor. Here, Head Chef Kenneth Culhane joins forces with the host, inspiring the team through his passion for food and wine, commitment to quality ingredients, traditional husbandry and responsible sourcing. Of particular value, we find The Dysart's acute understanding of the increasing need for ethical treatment and welfare of animals, thoughtful and natural cultivation of plants, and the wise use of resources, including the land on which we all depend.

Earning a Michelin star is no mean feat, but just as impressive is the apparent dedication to culture in general found at The Dysart, with the commitment to the role of beauty in enriching our lives. A small number of concerts are hosted throughout the year where guests gather around the antique rosewood Bechstein grand piano, enjoying a recital where the personality and interpretation of acclaimed performers acquainted with some of the most notable venues around the World, including Wigmore and Carnegie, can be enjoyed in a salon environment. The presence of an audience grouped around the performer and only feet away is a rarity for musicians, often playing music first composed and performed in similar intimate surroundings.

There are various menus to choose from. These range from a nine-course tasting menu to three or four-course menus, available at all opening times, including lunch and dinner. A three-course garden menu is also available in the evening on Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday and at lunchtime on Thursdays and Fridays. On this occasion, we opted for four courses. The delicious sourdough focaccia preceded charred bream or turnip with radish, ginger, and champagne, leading to oxtail risotto and Jerusalem artichoke soup. Steamed cod with lemon celeriac and green chilli and Creedy Carver duck breast with walnut pesto and blackcurrant jus impressed as main courses before ending the meal with a selection of British cheeses, Yorkshire rhubarb, and dark chocolate pavé with mango and vanilla ice cream.

As you would expect, the wine list is as meticulously curated as the menu, featuring an extensive selection of vintages from both Old and New World vineyards. Expert guidance is provided by Barny, ensuring that each wine complements the flavours and nuances of the dishes. Wine or alcohol-free pairings are available for tasting menus, enhancing the culinary journey with each course, as it did this evening for us. Of particular surprising note was the white Sussex Reserve from Nutbourne Vineyards, a true testament to the ever-increasing sophistication of English winemaking. The wine list also travels to the well-known regions of Italy, France, and Spain, as well as the lesser-known wines of our beloved Switzerland. Wine dinners are organised frequently throughout the year, where Barny and Kenneth pair ingredients and dishes with the wines of some of the finest winemakers and producers worldwide, with the winemaker presenting to guests on the night. Icons such as Trimbach, Gosset, Henschke, Nyetimber and Guigal are but a few to have featured over the years.

What is culture? The Dysart seems to encompass the very essence of the term, remembering the best from days past, cultivating nourishment for body and soul in food, wine, art, and music, and delivering these with such grace and humility as to make you want to have The Dysart involved in your own life's journey. We can only ask ourselves why it took us so long to visit the family.