In the Philippines, the Kalesa is more than simply a means of transportation; its unique sound on cobblestones and sentimental appeal are remnants of the nation's colonial history.

Originally a person's emblem of wealth, the Kalesa now offers visitors and residents a genuine look into Philippine history. It is a moving remembrance of a time gone by. Here, we highlight the history, style, and contemporary significance of the Kalesa.

What is a Kalesa?

Spanish colonisation brought the charming horse-drawn carriage, or Kalesa, to the Philippines in the eighteenth century. The Kalesa is a stylish and useful vehicle with two huge wheels and a covered seating area for four people.

The driver, often called the kutsero, uses reins to guide the horse while seated on an elevated bench in front. In the past, kalesas were highly ornamented—frequently painted in vivid hues and embellished with elaborate patterns that symbolised the wealth and rank of their owners.

Anatomy of a Kalesa

  • Wheels: typically made of wood with a metal rim, the large wheels are built to withstand colonial cities' rugged, uneven streets.
  • Body: the carriage body is primarily wooden, featuring detailed carvings and a bright, glossy finish to protect it from the elements.
  • Canopy: a fabric or leather canopy covers the passenger area, providing shelter from the sun and rain, which is essential in the tropical climate of the Philippines.
  • Seats: inside, passengers sit facing each other on cushioned benches, which makes the ride a communal, interactive experience.

Historical significance of the Kalesa

Kalesas were originally only available to wealthy Filipinos and Spanish officials, but as they expanded throughout the archipelago, they started to be used for transportation.

Before the invention of the vehicle, they served as a form of personal transportation and were essential to the public transportation network.

The resilience of the Kalesa throughout the ages—Spanish, American, and post-independence—showcases its flexibility and enduring influence on Philippine culture.

Uses of the Kalesa then and now

In its heyday, the Kalesa was used for everyday transport, ceremonial purposes, and even as an ambulance during wars. Today, Kalesas primarily caters to tourists, offering a historical tour of old cities like Manila's Intramuros and Vigan. They are a physical link to the past, allowing people to experience history firsthand.

Where to experience Kalesa rides in the Philippines

  • Intramuros, Manila: perhaps the most iconic location for a Kalesa ride, Intramuros offers a backdrop of historic walls and ancient buildings, enhancing the time-travel experience.
  • Vigan, Ilocos Sur: famous for its preserved Spanish colonial and Asian architecture, Vigan allows visitors to ride Kalesas along Calle Crisologo, surrounded by heritage buildings.
  • Binondo, Manila: as a historic commercial centre, Binondo provides a unique blend of cultural influences, making a Kalesa ride here a journey through the diverse facets of Filipino heritage.

The cultural legacy of the Kalesa

The Kalesa's continued popularity is evidence of its significance as a Filipino cultural emblem. It is honoured at festivals and regional customs, inspiring singers, filmmakers, and artists.

The Kalesa is more than simply a remnant from the past; it is an active participant in the nation's cultural narrative, conserving a way of life that enchants and teaches people to this day.

Conclusion

The Kalesa remains a beloved emblem of Philippine history. Its wheels echo through the streets of old cities, reminding us of the country's colonial past and its journey into modernity. Whether as a tourist attraction or a subject of cultural study, the Kalesa continues to captivate and charm, offering a timeless ride through the rich tapestry of Filipino history.

My personal account of riding a Kalesa in Vigan

Riding a Kalesa was a wonderful experience in 2023 while on a family trip in the old city of Vigan. I could sense the mood instantly changing as we boarded the classic carriage—as if we were being transported from the present into the past. It gave us a real taste of history and seemed like passing through a gateway into the era of Spanish colonisation.

The first challenge was getting into the Kalesa itself. Unlike modern vehicles with convenient ergonomics, the Kalesa sits considerably higher off the ground, requiring a bit of a climb. This initial hurdle made me ponder life's everyday nuances and physical realities centuries ago, adding a layer of authenticity to the experience.

After we were seated, we had a commanding view of the town, much as Spanish officials could have seen it when they marched through the streets, thanks to the carriage's lofty viewpoint.

The horse began to trot, and the soft jingling of the harness added to the sense of rhythmic galloping. The motion had a certain quality not found in contemporary transportation: it moved at a flowing, organic pace, giving the impression that the surroundings were unfolding slowly but captivatingly all around us. The earthy fragrance of the cobblestones warmed by the sun and the aromas of regional food from the surrounding restaurants blended to create a delightful wind.

As the Kalesa proceeded down Vigan's Calle Crisologo, we appreciated the magnificence of the colonial buildings that had been maintained. Each building told a story of centuries past, and the slow pace of our carriage allowed us to appreciate the intricate details of these historical edifices.

However, as the ride concluded and I stepped down from the carriage, the immediate rush of modern sounds and sights was jarring. The transition from the tranquil clatter of horse hooves to the bustling noise of motorbikes and cars was a stark reminder of the temporal bridge we had just crossed.

The contrast between the slow, rhythmic pace of the Kalesa and the rapid speed of modern life was striking. It underscored how much the world has changed and how the rhythms of daily life have accelerated.

Reflecting on the experience, riding the Kalesa was not just a tourist activity but a profound immersion into what life might have been like in the Spanish colonial era. It offered a momentary escape from the fast-paced modern world, providing a space to reflect on transportation, lifestyle, and urban development changes.

This journey on a Kalesa in Vigan wasn't just a ride; it was a vivid historical reenactment that allowed my family and me to connect with the past intimately and memorably. It reminded us of the beauty of slowing down and appreciating the journey, not just the destination.