Navigating the ever-changing skincare world in today's social, tech-driven world can be overwhelming. When it comes to skincare, focusing on prevention, protection, and maintenance is crucial. While factors like aging, hormones, and genetics are beyond our control, we can take charge of nutrition and protective practices to support our skin. We are starting by exploring how we can care for our skin externally.

Crafting an effective skincare routine doesn't have to be complicated. All you need are a few essential products: moisturizer, daily sunscreen, evening retinoid, and, of course, using a hydrating cleanser. This routine supports healthy skin while enhancing its appearance, and it's vital to consider the long-term benefits of your current actions. You can promote healthy skin by establishing an evidence-based routine that maximizes results with minimal effort. Despite the many skincare options available, it's essential to feel calm.

Protecting your skin with moisturizer is critical for its health. The skin is a protective barrier, shielding the body from external irritants and retaining moisture. Should the skin lose moisture, becoming dry and cracked, its protective function weakens, potentially leading to red, inflamed, and itchy skin and infections. The skin's structure is comparable to a "bricks and mortar" system, with cells called keratinocytes acting as the bricks and a mixture of fats and proteins serving as the mortar. Moisturizers replenish this "mortar," maintaining the barrier and preventing moisture loss.

Dry skin is a common issue worsened by hot showers, which strip away the skin's natural oils. A good moisturizer like Cerave or Laroche Pose can help rehydrate the skin and maintain its protective barrier. It's recommended to apply moisturizer to damp skin to lock in moisture.

A case report from the reputable New England Journal of Medicine described the harmful effects of sun exposure on a truck driver with significant sun damage on the left side of his face after years of exposure. This condition, known as photoaging or dermatoheliosis, is caused by UV radiation that mutates the DNA in skin cells, leading to wrinkles, fine lines, and dark spots. Using sunscreen is crucial to protect against UV radiation and prevent DNA mutations that can cause skin cancer and photoaging. When choosing a sunscreen, ensure it has a broad spectrum, has a high SPF (30 or more), and is applied generously to provide optimal protection.

SPF is based on the assumption that the sunscreen is applied in a thick layer, so many dermatologists and cosmetic formulators recommend using a minimum of SPF 30 to ensure adequate protection. However, people typically get around 60% of the stated SPF level due to how sunscreen is worn. Factors such as sweating and smudging can also reduce sunscreen effectiveness throughout the day, making it ideal to reapply sunscreen every few hours. If wearing makeup, choose sunscreen spray or foundations with SPF. It's essential to use a sunscreen that feels comfortable on your skin, and SPF 30 is a good level of protection to aim for.

In addition to moisturizers and sunscreen, retinoids, initially developed for acne, have been found to affect the skin positively. With anti-aging properties, retinoids can reduce pigment unevenness, minimize wrinkles, and decrease acne breakouts, making them a versatile skincare ingredient.

While they were initially developed as an acne treatment, retinoids can also be good for normal skin. As a medical student, I had only heard of retinoids being used for acne.

Retinoids are a versatile skincare ingredient that has been found to have many positive effects on the skin. While they were initially developed as a vitamin A-based treatment for acne, researchers have since discovered that the active ingredient, retinol, also has anti-aging properties. Research consistently indicates that utilizing a potent retinoid over an extended period yields three primary skin-enhancing effects:

  • Retinoids promote the growth of collagen and elastic fibers in the dermis, which reduces wrinkles and contributes to a youthful appearance.
  • They diminish uneven pigmentation and dark spots caused by the sun.
  • Retinoids accelerate skin cell regeneration, resulting in smoother and more youthful-looking skin.

Given these benefits, incorporating retinoids into your skincare routine is worthwhile.

While retinoids can improve the skin's appearance, patience is essential, as results take time to manifest. They are beneficial for younger individuals as a preventive measure but can also increase skin sensitivity and peeling. Retinoids come in different strength levels, with retinol being the weaker over-the-counter version found in most anti-aging skincare products.

Stronger versions require a doctor's prescription. Using retinoids carefully is crucial because they may cause side effects such as dry skin, flaky skin, and sensitivity. Consulting with a dermatologist to determine the most suitable retinoid for your skin is recommended before use.

The general recommendation for retinoids is to start with a small, pea-sized amount every other night and gradually increase usage while ensuring ample moisturizer application to prevent dryness and flaking.

When it comes to skin cleansing, water alone effectively removes debris, but a cleanser is specifically designed to eliminate oils that may be challenging to wash away with water alone. According to some dermatologists, using a cleanser may be advantageous if you use heavy cosmetics, have visible dirt or sweat on your face, or experience frequent breakouts. While using a cleanser is not mandatory, opting for a gentle, hydrating cleanser that can remove excess oil while retaining skin moisture is beneficial. Look for a hyaluronic acid cleanser to hydrate the skin and ceramides to replenish its natural oils. This helps maintain skin moisture and protects its natural barrier.

Let's now focus on supporting our skin from within.

Our skin comprises multiple layers that rely on a sturdy structure for firmness and elasticity. Collagen, the primary structural protein, forms a fibrous network that reinforces tissues, imparting a smooth and firm appearance to our skin. However, collagen production decreases with age, leading to its accelerated breakdown. This breakdown results in an annual loss of approximately 1% collagen in our skin from age 20, contributing to the aging process. To address this, let's consider three food choices that can support the collagen in our skin.

First and foremost, consuming protein-rich foods such as beans, lentils, tofu, tempeh, nuts, and seeds is crucial, as collagen is a protein. These foods provide the essential building blocks our body needs to produce collagen.

Additionally, Vitamin C and E play a pivotal role in repairing damaged collagen, stimulating collagen production, and maintaining the strength of its network. You can find vitamin E in almonds, sunflower seeds, leafy greens, peanuts, and avocados. At the same time, vitamin C is abundant in citrus fruits like kiwis and oranges and vegetables such as bell peppers and broccoli.

Treating damaged skin involves using zinc, an essential element known for its anti-inflammatory properties that aid in healing wounds and injuries. Moreover, zinc can be beneficial in managing skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, eczema, and rosacea. Dietary sources of zinc include nutritional yeast, seeds, legumes, whole grains, and seeds like pumpkin, sesame, and hemp seeds. Enhancing the body's zinc absorption can be achieved by soaking beans, grains, nuts, and seeds before consumption.

Dry skin can cause discomfort and may result from various factors, such as exposure to dry air, hot water, harsh soaps, and medications. Hydrating the skin can be achieved by consuming omega-3 fats, which improve the skin barrier function and help retain moisture. Omega-3 fats have been found in foods like walnuts, hemp seeds, chia seeds, ground flax seeds, and algae-based supplements. Additionally, ensuring adequate water intake is essential for overall health, positively impacting the skin.

Sebum, a natural skin lubricant, can lead to acne and blackheads when produced excessively due to hormonal fluctuations. Dietary choices also play a role, with high-sugar, dairy, or quickly metabolized carbohydrate diets impacting serum production. High-glycemic foods like sweetened beverages, refined grains, and sweets rapidly raise blood sugar levels, increasing serum production. In contrast, low-glycemic foods such as vegetables, whole grains, tofu, edamame, nuts, and seeds, which slowly convert into sugars, can positively affect the skin. Therefore, consuming entire plant-based foods and reducing high-glycemic, sugary foods is advisable to optimize sebum production.

Our skin provides valuable insights into our body's internal processes, and current discussions focus on the link between gut health and skin health. The gut hosts trillions of microorganisms, including beneficial and harmful bacteria. A higher diversity of beneficial bacteria benefits skin health, while an imbalance with excess harmful bacteria can contribute to skin disorders like acne, psoriasis, and eczema. Increasing probiotic intake through fermented foods such as plant-based yogurts, kimchi, miso, sauerkraut, and kombucha supports gut and skin health. However, further research is required to fully understand probiotics' functioning.

Chronic inflammation leading to various diseases has been linked to multiple health issues, including skin diseases such as eczema, heart disease, arthritis, and skin conditions like acne, wrinkles, and rosacea. Choosing nourishing foods with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties is crucial in combating inflammation, and this is where the benefits of plant-based foods become evident. A diet rich in various nutritional fruits and vegetables can provide the body with abundant antioxidants, enhancing skin elasticity, smoothness, and complexion.

It's essential to recognize that no single food, supplement, drink, or skincare product can instantly result in clear and radiant skin. Positive changes to the skin require time, patience, and a deeper understanding of one's skin, aiding in making informed choices about diet, lifestyle, and skincare products.

(This article was written by Basetsana Kekana, supervised by Dr.Thiago Freire)