The Sardinian Nobel laureate, Grazia Deledda, writes in her poem ‘”We are Sardinians”: 'We are a land of long silences, of horizons vast and pure.' The silent evening balm of a summer night has never felt so good as when arriving at Hotel Capo D'Orso, a 5-star boutique-style romantic hotel situated in the most exclusive part of the North Sardinian coast, in Gallura between the beautiful Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena Archipelago This is what dreams are made of. We had to wait until morning to look at horizons vast and pure, of Sardinian blue, 'Nel blu dipinto di blu'.
Ahead of its time with a vision for sustainability, the Delphina hotels & resorts Group, a family-owned business which started over 30 years ago, runs eight hotels in the most prestigious locations of North Sardinia, catering to all needs and tastes and all with their unique charm. Whatever you want, from a family vacation to a romantic getaway, you can find it in one of their hotels, and you won't be disappointed. The group has a great passion for protecting the nature of Sardinia and set its sight early on being a sustainable company 'We are green' brand, created and registered by Delphina to represent their commitment to the environment. Its motto is to protect and preserve the island's beauty. Therefore, everything is considered in their properties, from the cleaning products used all around the hotels to their design, integrating them seamlessly into nature.
We are escorted through the lush greenery of the perfectly maintained yet natural gardens surrounding the magnificent grounds. Through their enchanting pathways and colourful flora, we arrive at our suite, which is decorated in Sardinian style by the local artisans with statement-making pieces, including an intricate iron headboard and handmade tapestry, which create a rustic and peaceful feeling. With almost a sparse decor and earthy hues, this gives an organic flow throughout, perfect for relaxing.
We quickly freshen up and head for dinner at 'Il Paguro', a charming restaurant overlooking the majestic Marina di Cala Capra offering complimentary mooring for people arriving with their boat for lunch. Sitting at our table under a stylish thatched parasol with our antipasto, delicious local Sardinian wine and spaghetti Vongole to follow, a thought occurs; can you ever have too much of a good thing? Not in this instance where understated and relaxed luxury would make anyone feel at ease. Waking up to the gentle sound of the harp from the breakfast setting the following morning, a varied and delicious buffet of local products awaits in the Olive Grove (Gli Olivastri restaurant). With our decaf and oat milk cappuccino and a double espresso in hand, we admire the scenery of olive trees and a calm deep blue sea. If this is how they start the day at Capo d'Orso, we would like more of it, please.
There is a natural flow of calm and serenity throughout this place. Considering it can host up to 200 guests, it feels wonderfully empty and private, mainly thanks to the many secluded coves, beaches and floating swimming platforms scattered along the hotel and its coast. A short walk from the hotel is Cala Selvaggia ( the wild beach) an oasis of calm and beauty with turquoise blue seas all around the property. Although the hotel does not advertise itself as adult-only, it caters to couples seeking quiet and pure idyllic relaxation and private babysitting is available if required.
Capo d'Orso is a secluded paradise, offering in high season something that we have never experienced before, total bliss away from overcrowded beaches.
As the day progresses and we have explored parts of the hotel, we head over to the wellness centre, L'Incantu, a few metres from the sea, featuring not only massage rooms and treatments but also three multifunction pools with sea water heated to different temperatures. With Jacuzzis, a Turkish bath, relaxation and sunbathing area, this incredible Thalasso Spa will help you to leave the city blues behind and feel rejuvenated by the multiple bubbles in the blue seawater. Before the evenings set in, this became a ritual during our stay, getting ready for dinner after a relaxing day with sun-kissed skin and a glowing complexion.
On our second night, we opt for the romantic 'Ile Flottante' an over-water platform restaurant. As we are here celebrating our 11th wedding anniversary this setting feels apt for a romantic evening only shared with a handful of other guests. Live music with incredibly talented musicians is a recurring theme at Capo d'Orso and throughout all the Delphina hotels. Still, suppose you do wish to venture out of this idyllic hotel, in that case, you can reach the town of Palau a few kilometres away and on your way enjoy the most spectacular view of the Archipelago and the famous rock formation, the famous Roccia dell’ Orso (Bear Rock). Of course, guests can also enjoy this view from the sea or by helicopter, which the hotel will happily arrange for you, and which could be a dreamy addition for a special occasion such as a wedding or an anniversary.
The following day, another adventure awaits, organised by the hotel with their partner company Poseidon, a yacht charter with boats of all sizes providing exclusive services in North Sardinia. We opt for the elegant and magnificent Pulcinella, a period wooden sailing boat which will take you back to a unique, almost mythical, atmosphere with the wind in the sails and the reflections of the crystal blue sea. The boat once belonged to the famous Italian singer Gino Paoli who famously sang the summer hit song: Sapore di Mare in the early 1960s, adding an extra charm to our already memorable journey. After several swims in the many shades of the turquoise blue waters touching the different small islands we visit, a delicious lunch is served on board: Antipasto, Sardinian wine and spaghetti Frutti di mare.
As we head for one last splash in the sea before making the journey back to the city, we have packed a suitcase full of dreams which we will take back with us. We look forward to being welcomed again by the charming Sardinians, which Grazia Deledda aptly describes in her poem as 'the wild solitude, the immense and profound silence, the brilliance of the sky, the white flower of the cistus'. We hope to see them all again.