Sprawling from high in the hills down to the waves and the sand, Rio de Janeiro is arguably Brazil’s most desired, yet infamous destination. Above the clouds, the calm face of Chris the Redeemer gazes out across the skies. Below, the streets are chaotic, groaning with traffic and the rush of humanity. On the beaches, days are lost to the sun, seeming to last forever. It appears there is never a quiet moment in this city, which is way after a few days, you may wish for a breath of fresh air...

A week in Rio was enough for my friend Lloyd and I, as we decided it was time to explore further down the coast. A brief two-hour bus ride took us to the port town of Angra dos Reis, nestled into a bay facing out into the great expanse of the Atlantic – except for one last bastion of Brazilian beauty. Ilha Grande – or the Big Island – is just under 200km² of unspoilt, protected paradise. The island is off-limits to cars, and the largest settlement, Abraão, has less than 2,000 residents. The rest of the isle is scattered with various villages and hamlets, hidden between the pristine rainforest and magnificent beaches. Ilha Grande is where you come for some time out; for some lazy days; for sun, sea and sanctuary. We arrived on a Thursday, the sky grey but forecast to clear, with a wonderful long weekend stretching away into the distance. Abraão is a simple town, forgoing anything extravagant for dirt roads, elementary architecture, beachside bars and dozens of pousadas, akin to basic hostels. In one word, it’s relaxed. For our first night we did little, exploring the backstreets under lamplights heavy with mosquitoes, then eating dinner off plastic tables, ten metres from the shore. The night was soft and warm, a dull buzzing from the insects out in the darkness, a rhythmic whoosh from the waves gently cresting – a peaceful welcome indeed.

Due to the lack of roads, the availability and presence of superb walking trails across the island is astounding. On the Friday, along with another Brit named Tom that we had met at our pousada, we trekked for about 3 hours over the eastern peninsula of the island. The trail took us along the tranquil shoreline and up into the forest, lush and green and cool, before emerging above the canopy onto baking dusty rocks. Panoramas of azure skies and turbulent turquoise waves greeted us, as we continued towards our journey’s end, the idyllic beach of Lopes Mendes. Here the sands were white and squeaked softly beneath our toes, as surfers took to the blue. People lazed in the late afternoon shade of musing palms, a cold beer never too far away. Hours passed. As the sun began to fade and the temperature dropped, we boarded a sailing boat in a nearby bay to return us to Abraão. We spent the remains of the day down by the waters with others from the pousada, accompanied by guitars and rum and fire.

For our final day on Ilha Grande we embarked upon a speedboat tour of the island, exploring to the north and west. Here we sped past the heavily forested slopes that tumble down from Pico da Pedra D’Água, the highest point on the island, towards some popular snorkelling locations known as the Lagoa Verde and Lagoa Azul ( green lagoon and blue lagoon ). The day was spent either bathing on the deck or under the waters, admiring the shimmering colours that swam all around. We stopped off at a small hamlet for lunch, where the menu consisted of the day’s freshly caught seafood, and then returned to Abraão as evening fell, smashing through the waves and the spray. Later, a few of us went out to a bar, planning on only a couple of beers. Yet when a local band appeared on stage, the dancing began, and we didn’t get home until the early hours!

Morning arrived and so did our departure, as we packed our bags and made our way to the pier. Our next stop was a small town named Paraty, a few hours down the coast. I’m always excited to experience somewhere new, but Ilha Grande was one of the few places I really did not wish to leave. I hope to return someday, and can thoroughly recommend the same – no matter if you are in Rio, Brazil, South America or sitting at home, if you feel like having some time out, go. An elusive slice of paradise isn’t so far away...